When we tested it out.we missed something and thought all was well. Originally i had hoped you could just wire it in to the new n a 2nd ground and all would be good. This purple part comes out.on the side of the purple part is a small slot, use a small screw driver or similar and gently pry it out Yours may be a different color, dont worry Here is how you take apart the connectors I chose to just add a new one because i didnt have any ring terminals big enough to fit on the factor post.Ģ.You need to disasemble the connector at the end of the harness You can either get a big enough ring terminal to fit on that.or just drill a new hole for a new screw/bolt. I already put my car back together without taking pictures of this.but right behind, and down from the back of the headlights is a steel deck that already has a ground bolt on it with some grounds running to it. You have to run an additional ground to each side of the car. Reinstalling the front clip when you are done is obviously all in reverse.i put mine back together in about 15 minutes.Īfter you have all your front end off, old lights off.DONT put the new lights in yetġ. You can see the part number.they sell for about $24 ea.highway robbery. This is what you need to be able to wire in the 4 pin HID connection ![]() I gotta thank my buddy daniel for figuring this needle in a haystack out There really isnt a way to change this (there is, but lets not talk about it). The cars are programmed differently withing the vehicle config file to how the TIPM switches the voltage. Because power wont stay on both at the same time. So what happens, the high beam line gets power.opens the shutter.but the light turns off. So, the problem is, when you switch to high beam.the voltage goes away from the low beam, like mentioned above. There is a shutter inside the opens to let more light out. When you switch to high beam, the bulb actually doesnt get brighter. On the HID, low beam powers the ballast/bulb. So both wires never have power at the same time (unless you pull back on the lever on the steering wheel). Switch to hi beam, the power on the low beam goes out, and now power goes to the high beam lead, and runs a different filament in the bulb. The low beam wire gets power from the dash ns a filament in the bulb. The halogen set up on the challenger works like this. On the HID there is the same, plus a 2nd ground. ![]() On the halogen, there is a ground, 1 hi beam driver, 1 low beam driver We have found the pinouts for the connectors. The main issue so far, the halogen connectors are 3 pin, and the hid connector is 4 pin. Ive seen this seller on ebay (dodge dealer) sell them way cheaper than others Im pretty sure the HID bulb part number is (ill verify later) ![]() If you do find someone selling some, make sure they come with the ballast, and bulb if possible.īallast Part number, 1 for driver side, 1 for passenger side Find someone selling some, or parting out a challenger, ebay etc. These are available through the dealer for over $700 a piece, without ballasts and without bulbs. You really only need to jack up one side and get one stand under one side.įor starters, you will obviously need new headlamp assemblies. You also probably want to jack your car up some so you can get to the underside You must remove the service belly pan, the belly pan, part of the fender well liner and the front bumper cover(which has the grille and all). Hopefully this little write up will help people who may want to do this in the futureīasically, in order to do this, you have to remove the entire front bumper cover. (keep in mind.im replacing the complete housing to the projector lamps, my car did not have HIDS or projectors before) Ok.im going to give you guys a loose step by step on converting from stock halogens to the oem projector HID's.
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